LUNCH ON A TRABOCCO

Abruzzo's Costa dei Trabocchi: Fishing Platforms Turned Culinary Treasures

Crazy-looking wooden fishing structures known as trabocchi dot the 24-mile stretch of sparkling Adriatic known as the Trabocchi Coast. We'll enjoy an incredible lunch of just-caught seafood in one of them, suspended right over the turquoise water.

The Magical Wooden Spiders of the Adriatic

Jutting out from the coastline between Ortona and Vasto in Abruzzo, trabocchi appear almost otherworldly—delicate wooden structures perched on stilts above the sea, with long arms extending outward and complex networks of poles, platforms and nets. These ingenious fishing structures have been described as "giant wooden spiders," "sea monsters" or even "prehistoric crabs," but to locals, they represent centuries of fishing tradition and resourcefulness.

A Brief History

Trabocchi date back at least to the 18th century, though some local legends claim they've existed since Phoenician times. These structures were originally invented to allow fishing without boats, offering a way to harvest from the sea safely during rough weather. The design takes advantage of the rocky promontories along this stretch of coast, using minimal materials to create effective fishing stations.

How They Work

The traditional trabocco operates on a simple but clever principle: a platform extends from the shore, supporting a system of wooden arms (called antennae) that can be lowered and raised. These arms hold large, square fishing nets that are dipped into the water. When fish swim into the area, the nets are quickly raised, capturing the day's catch.

This method required intimate knowledge of local marine life, currents, and weather patterns—knowledge passed down through generations of fishing families who operated these structures.

From Workplaces to Dining Destinations

While many trabocchi still function as working fishing platforms, several have been transformed into unique dining experiences. These "trabocchi ristoranti" offer visitors the chance to enjoy the freshest possible seafood while sitting directly above the waters where it was caught — often just hours or even minutes earlier.

Cycling the Costa dei Trabocchi

The Trabocchi Coast is now connected by one of Italy's most scenic bike paths, the Via Verde dei Trabocchi. This 26-kilometer trail follows an old railway line, offering cyclists, walkers and runners breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea, access to secluded beaches and up-close views of the historic trabocchi.

Leslie Brenner